last Night

Well I'm just back from Bohol. From Alona Beach I went to the Tarsier Centre then on to the boat to go up the Loboc River to Nuts Huts which was superb. 750m from the main road, or access by the river. It's like a jungle retreat and a total chill out zone. The afternoon was spent drinking coconut milk from fresh coconuts, getting serenaded by the local villagers with 'I'm your lady, and you are my man' as they did their washing in the river, and the evening spent catching up with other visitors, eating and it was finished off with a coconut milk with rum. As per during the day the sounds of the jungle were superb and I was mesmerised watching 100 plus fireflies buzzing around a tree outside the deck.
Today I took a motorbike trip and visited the Chocolate Hills. Coming through rush hour Manila traffic is a million miles away from all that.
I think the next time I post I'll be back in snowy Scotland, and filling in the gaps in the blog, and adding more pictures. It's a daunting thought.....

Just One Wish

Please, can I go back to Boracay? It's good here, I just want another few days without clouds, 30c sea, and wading out to my armpits before I loose touch of the seabead..... then I'll go home. It's just looking at that photo and knowing there's snow on the ground back home (which usually 'excites' me!)....

Hello Bohol!

Well Manila may be a massive big city, but hey, my flight left at 8am, and by 11am I was around 360km away, finished a 40 minute transfer by trike to Alona Beach in Pangalo Island in Bohol, and was suited up on the dive boat ready to go!
Yes it was my final 3rd holiday before heading back to Manila to return to the snowy lands of Scotland in 4 days time. It seems a million miles away (ok, an 18 hour flight, a few long stops etc to take it all in :-( )
I've only a mere three days in Bohol so I signed up for an Adventure Diving course and Paid Another Dollar In to PADI. I couldn't really justify an extra day to complete the Advanced so today I did the Peak Bouyancy, Underwater Photography and Night Diving dives. To be honest I never saw any more than Boracay underwater as we 'just' went on the boat to the reef off the beach. The bouyancy was tricky, the photography I never learned too much (apart from it was luck the camera casing sealed ok last week!) but the Night Dive was definitely different, a real adventure from stepping on the boat, even though it was only 6pm. My torch lit up the only things I could see (ok, this is the Philippines, we could still see some stuff without torches. My navigation was probably terrible though - think Scotland in a dark white out on the hills, but with pretty things swimming past you.
Alona Beach is definitely a world apart from Boracay as its so uncommercial in comparison, a lot smaller, and far fewer people - probably more dive shops than people at this time of year. I was overwhelmed with taxi guys bartering for my business at the airport so I just confidently strided past them to see who was the most eager. Two pounds brought me here in 40 minutes in a slow, but 'scenic' trike ride. My 8 pounds accommodation was sorted, and I've just finished my 3.50 GBP meal - including two bottles of beer. Life is good.
Tomorrow should see me heading inland though to see the world's smallest 'monkeys' (they're not monkeys despite what you read) at the Tarsier centre in Bohol, then hopefully a trip up the Loboc River to arrive at my accommodation's pier at Nuts Huts. That's if they still have my reservation as they've never replied, and everyone around here talks about it.
Hopefully there will be no Huntsman Spiders climbing up my walls though. I've got my anti-mosquito plug in the wall device, but erm, I left my adaptor back in Manila in my quest to travel light.
There's definitely something refreshing about heading off for three days with only a carry on bag on your flight. That means, camera 1, camera 2, borrowed camera 3 with borrowed underwater housing (Thanks James!), iAudio MP3 player for tunes and camera backup, sun cream, anti mosquito cream, my journal book, my Lonely Planet, my Mountain Disasters book, and maybe a pair of shorts and a tshirt.
Life is good.

A Hard Day

Well I was toiling today, it was a hard one. I think the furthest I walked was across the street to Alexa's deli to order my sandwich at lunchtime. Apart from that I got the lift from he 36th floor to the 6th and vegg'ed out by the pool all day. It was cloudy which wasn't ideal, but to be honest I couldn't be arsed getting a cab down to Intramurus, the old town of Manila. Manyana (or however you spell it). Actually that reminds me of a quote I read in a book last week 'What's the equivalent of Manyana in the Philippines language?". "Nothing is that urgent in the Philippines."
Anyway, this evening we ventured around the block to an Italian restaurant, and Sid's Bar which had all the British football tops on the walls, and was full of fat Brits and young Filipina girlfriends. Maybe tomorrow I'll make it to Intramurus. If I can be arsed.
I did exert myself a bit though and sorted some of my trip to Bohol on Wednesday so I'm quite looking forward to that again, but it will be too short a time there!
Manyana!

Shop 'til you drop

Well today was a hectic day....shopping. I didn't buy much but I went for a whistle stop tour of shopping in Makati City, Manila. The malls here can be massive, think british style....but on acid. Far, far, far, far, far larger than anything you can ever imagine in Edinburgh, and what I've seen in London. I imagine they blow Bluewater North of London out of the water as well.
Anyway, my summary so far is :
Head to Makatai Cinema Square for knock off DVDs and computer software. It's a dive of a mall and not much there, but its full of software you'd never think even the pirates would bother about. The laugh of it is you even get a cell number to call if you have technical difficulties, and a receipt to return it if you have problems. How these work in practice I don't know because, of course, I never bought any..... What is funny that many of the ex-pat's can't be bothered to commit to watching say '24' every Wednesday or whatever so they'll just pop down any buy the whole series for five pounds. What is even funnier is the 'english' translation on the back of some of the box sets (oh yes, you even get a box set for that money, often from Hong Kong or somewhere).
Head to Ayala Centre for sheer shopping indulgence. Everything is here from Nike stores to department stores to home stores selling amazing furniture. I could've easily filled a crate to ship home. The centre is split into Glorietta 1 through 4 as it's so massive.
Greenbelt is the dinstinctly more upmarket 'mall' offering everything from Louis Vitton to Armani. There are some great restaurants here from Thai to Vietnamese to Cuban. Very nice, but definitely for the ex-pats and rich Filipinas, I mean a beer could be anything from 50p to 1.20 GBP!

I've yet to sample Powerplant Mall and the more dodgy one whose name escapes me at the moment.

Oh yes, and don't forget a trip to Balikbayan Handicrafts on A. Arnaiz Avenue (Pasay Road) as if it has the right stock in, I could easily fill a crate to ship home.....

Manila and around

Today was quite a big day, started by getting up to visit the Makati
market for meat and veg before breakfast. The taxi driver picked us up
to take us to Taal Volcano a couple of hours south of Manila. Quite a
few of Manila's well heeled have holiday homes here for the weekends.
On the way to there we stopped off at the Bamboo Organ church and a
factory where they make the classic Jeepney's that many use as
transport, hopping on and off along a route. It wasn't the typical
factory setting but it was quite interesting to see them in various
stages from axles up to the finished glorified taxis with intricate hand
painted signs, and over the top patronages to god, and one-up-manship in
terms of flashy lights, mirrors and aerials as each driver tries to
outdo other ones. Just past here we took a detour round past another
slum area alongside the river and took a couple of snaps out the
window. There was a terrible stench when the window was down which
really brough it home what conditions some of these people were living
in (see picture). Sadly, it would make a great photo documentary if you had free
access to some of these areas and people. It was pleasing to see a
couple of guys play 'pool' on a home made wooden table using sticks and
wooden discs instead of cues and balls though.
After this we drove through fruit (coconut and pineapple) and rice
plantations on the way to an over the top, overpriced (ok, similar to UK
prices, but expensive for here) Italian restaurant called Antionio's in
Tagaytay.
To complete the day we headed to Taal lake and took a banca boat across
the water for around 20 minutes to do a 45 minute trek up to the crater
rim on Taal Volcano which is still active. It was quite a funny drive at the last section as there were folk on motorbikes in front of us trying to sell us the boat trip at exorbitant prices, but holding up a plaque (see picture). Our driver said it was unusual as normally they make a hand signal so they driver knows he'll get a cut, but they didn't this time. We almost knocked more of them down as they jumped in front of the car at the next junction. It's not quite a manic as it probably sounds reading it, it's just what happens in most touristy areas anywhere 'abroad'. By the way, the boat trip should cost around 1600 pesos for a boat, or less. As we got to the other side, locals try and get you to pay for a horse to take you up the 45 minute trek, again, if you opt for this option, pay 500 pesos or less, when our driver was asking and bargaining the local whispered "shh, be quiet there's another lady coming along". Once you get past that and the local kids who have extremely good knowledge of english "1 peso...sirrr, please give me a coin", or the same with 5 pesos instead. I hate to admit, but after being in Asia for a couple of weeks, you forget that while you think they are being a pain, all they are asking for is the equivalent of 1 or 5 pence, 2 or 7 cents.
when you continue the walk it's a pretty stunning setting having this in the middle of a huge lake which occupies the
original crater. The volcano in the centre of the lake also has a water
filled crater, and the ground steams nearer the top and is pretty hot. Althought it reminded me of the fantastic Scottish scenery on the west coast, it's a very welcome relieve from the built up Manila after a week in the islands.
As we neared the summit we could hear the thunder and we got caught in a
rain and lightning storm, drenching us on the way down. To top it all
the boat died about 2/3rds across and it took many attempts to restart
the engine as we sat in the middle of the lake in a lightning storm in
the dark.

Goodbye Boracay

Well it was a very very sad goodbye to Boracay when I left on Friday (see picture). I

had a whistle stop tour of the beaches in the north end of the island,
but to be honest, it wasn't worth the bother and I wish I had just
stayed at White Beach as it's nicest. (Puka beach in the north was very
nice and long as well, but nothing there so I didn't stay). Was
interesting to see how quickly the roads got very shabby indeed though.
It was very hot though and it took several dips in the sea before I
could muster up courage to go and get lunch, signalling the end of my
trip there. The sea temperature must have been a few degrees over 30 I
reckon.
When I arrived back in Manila I was taken a different route to Makati
City where my sister lives. It's a CBD district and the stock exchange
etc is around there. It hit me slightly the first visit, but this time
I couldn't believe how much of a difference there is in class within
this city - about less than 100 yards from a brand new tower block is
miles of slums following the railtrack, kids with open lit fires, shacks
on top of other shacks and hundreds of people milling around (see picture). You can
be crossing a junction in a cab when kids come up desperately trying to
get cash out you while they avoid the manic traffic in the lane next to
you. Very depressing.
Went out for a meal in the evening at a centre called the Fort where the
well heeled Filipinos and ex-pats eat and drink in luxury. This was
clearly the other side of the coin. Had a few drinks with the folk from
my sister's work. Boracay seemed a million miles away... :-(

Nemo lives on!

Well I had my final two open water dives today :-( Could easily stay on to do more. Just so you don't worry, Nemo lives on, and the little b*gger's been shagging. He definitely had more Nemo's around him and he's much smaller than he looks in the movies. Saw lots of things, big red bass (I think), a large eel hiding in a wee hole, and lots of other erm.... colourful shiny fish. I think that's the name of them anyway. Didn't do my navigation very well, but I did outswim my instructor who was racing after me, and I didn't hear the boat honking it's horn either. I think it was the surface current.... (actually there was a surface current)
Last night was my first night "on the beers" but compared to back home, well I walked home soberish. Had a drink in a wee pub "that you can hang out with your mates without ladies hassling you" next to the accommodation and went for a few beers with an ex-pat who took me on a brief spin of the local establishments, introduced me to the life that tourists never hear of, and the food places that are worth frequenting. I think I'll try one of the burgers he pointed out on the way home tonight. By the way, the pub description was his, not mine. Clearly I won't be back there. JOKING! And last night was proof that everyone's not trying to rip you off here - the bar staff called me back when I gave them 300 pesos in a tip...although that's maybe cos I was with Mr X (I won't reveal his name incase I tell more of his stories, and he has to get the local security to protect his house with M16's again. To be fair, he was, or at least spoke like, an honest guy and gave a pretty good representation of the place as he's been married to a local since arriving a few years ago.
Anyway, my stomach is calling. I'll try to dig out a picture of Nemo over the weekend and keep you in suspense.....

Gay Rocks!

Well I had my second open water dive today, but the first one from the boat. It's about the only place in the world you'll be on 'banca' boats made with bamboo outrunners. A superb experience and totally calm, even when the mask was off. Saw some coral and many fish including some huge puffer type fish. Bugger knows what the others were.
I had the afternoon free so intended on getting some guy on a motorbike take me around, but the only time I wondered to find someone I couldn't find something with an engine. I ended up walking to the south end of the beach where you can see coral at low tide and is 'a great location for photography' according to the lonely planet. Mistake No. 1. It wasn't low tide. Anyway, there were a few random locals kicking around so I kept wandering over rocks to find wee beaches on their own. Some local guy started chatting and saying "you can walk round further, I'll join you". "Don't worry, don't feel you have to, just do your own thing." Boom was his name (or something like that). "No problem" he said, so hey ho, off we go. As we walked past a big rock he said "Good place to hide". Hmm, I thought, it's not exactly a hiding place, just a sheltered place. "Are you here on your own?" Hmmm. Silent alarm bells rang but stop being suspicious of everyone...despite just finishing a very detailed description of some of the low life goings on in Asia and around in "Off the Rails in Phnom Penh: Into the Dark Heart of Guns, Girls, and Ganja", I carry on. (you should read this book, it's an eye opener and even has some Cambodian poltical history in in...it even puts my mates in the extremely tame league. Maybe they haven' told me all though.
I decide I can't be arsed walking any further so I go back and he just comes back too. "They call this place Gay Rocks as it's where all the gays come." "Well that's not mentioned in the tourist guides" I say. "And that's not me." We saunter back towards the rock he says "it's a good place to have sex at the Rocks". I said nothing. As we walk past the said rock yet again and he said, extending his thoughts "That is a good place to release. You want release?". I decide to say I'm going to continue on my mission to find a bike to tour the island as I wander off leaving him talking to two western blokes flying a kite. I find a nice bar, sit down with my book and order a beer. Fifteen minutes later Bom arrives and sits on the lounger next to me. I acknowledged his presence and continued reading, sneaking off as he dozed asleep.
I thought it was bad being propositioned on the beach while having a quiet beer the other night, but this is just taking the piss.
I remember not to go to any good photography locations in the future. I'm sure I could have got some pretty extrordinary pictures, but not the kind I was looking for. I made a mental note to update the Lonely Planet with my new findings.

The diving course finishes tomorrow so I have the morning off and have picked the nice dives of the day to do. Bring it on.

Meanwhile I'm off to enjoy some beer and food at the pub I type this in...with free net access.

A motto for life...

"When you are born you are crying while all others around you are smiling. Live your life in such a way that when you die, you die smiling while others around you are crying." Seen scribbled on the Chiang Mai Sports Saloon bar wall. October 2005.

Philippines and Boracay

Well I've been in Borocay for all of two days now, and it's fantastic. I was long overdue and beach holiday to myself and after a birds eye view of the island from the twin-prop from Manila, the tiny man pushed boat transfer to the Banca boats, I didn't know whether to cry or scream walkign off the boat, through the water and onto shore. It's commercial, but done in a way that preserves it 'quaint-ness'. The 3km beach has a walkway along which small bars, stalls, stret vendors and tricycle trips cover. You always get asked if you want a room, or a boat trip, or a massage (a proper one, one the beach!) but no-one is pushy. Luxury resorts towards one end of the pristine 3km beach, slowly going into wannabe luxury resorts and cheap accommodation (my end! http://www.davesstrawhatinn.com/). It wouldn't suit everyone but it's clean, basic, but has everything you need, the staff are super friendly, and I think it suits the nature of this place far better than a $200 resort. I walk past local's shacks to mine and locals shops selling all the esssentials... I say that, but it seems to be cigarettes, water, and the odd beer, from a shack you can hardly stand in..then eventually I get to my place. It's not that backward though, some folk pay hundreds of dollars a night to stay in some of the resorts, and they look superb.
But most of all I did my first open water dive today. Not too much to see as we entered from the beach opposite the dive centre (http://www.calypso-asia.com/). I still saw a few corals though, and some fish, and the odd empty bottle of beer. It's a good time to come as it's not as busy as in a few week's time and I have one to one instruction with an English lass from Canbridge. I've been assured that tomorrow morning's dive site will be "the complete opposite, you won't know where to look they'll be so much to see". Bring it on. I did find some trouble with the bits I thought I would though, but I just persevered and got calm and everything was hunkydorey. Today I was totally natural in the water. It's my second day and I'm only doing stuff tomorrow morning so my last day will be two dives with no more theory. If was here for two more days I think I'd be straight into my Advanced Diver course....

Last day in Chiang Mai

Quick short post as I'm about to try and stuff all the wee things I bought into my bag to see how much space I can find before my last trip to the amazing Night Bizarre. Unfortunately I know I won't have space for the wonderful £70 hand crafted wooden chair I eyed at longingly yesterday. I couddnt justify the $255 shipping charge, and sitting at 4 foot high I don't think it'll fit in my rucksack....
Had a bizarre day yesterday. After picking up an email a few days late from my mate Alan in Melbourne "Darren I hear you're in Thailand, gimme a call", I replied and texted him knowing we wouldn't be able to hook up. I got a call from a Thai number yesterday on my mobile. "Darren, we're in Chiang Mai, we have to leave at 12:30pm to go to Laos. Where are you, fancy a beer?" One tuk, tuk ride later he was at my door and I was having a Singha beer for breakfast with him.
It was the start of my hangover today! I did a bit of solo power drinking while being dropped off at the Thai boxing 90 minutes early, while downing a random plate of some kind of noodle soup. After just reading the section in Ewan McGregor's Long Way Round book about them being treated to fried bull's bollocks, and with some "creamy goo" coming out the freshy toasted nut, I just couldn't eat the three lumps in the soup. I knew they'd be tofu or something, but he just described his meal in too much detail for me to take more than a little slice of one of them. There were no veins, and no creamy goo, but I couldn't chance any more....
Unfortunately those drinks, and the later ones meant I couldn't enjoy the fantastic food I cooked at the Sompet Thai Cookery school today. Can you guess which carrot and tomato I handcrafted in the picture? And yes, that is crushed shrimp's head in the Tom Yum soup...."only for taste". It's brains tasted good as they were left behind when we took the head out...

Chiang Mai

Well like I said, I'm stealing time in Chiang Mai. I probably won't end
up doing half the things intended like an overnight trek, but I have
seen the long necked tribe from Myanmar who have set up a small tribal
village close to Chaing Mai so they can earn a living without having to
pass it to police and soldiers back home. It was the highlight of an
overly touristy elephant 'trek', bamboo rafting and sacred caves trip. Seeing elephants was cool, but seeing them playing football and painting was just a bit too much and unnatural (although I had to be impressed how much they could be trained, and how delicate they could be...even with me 'driving' solo on the front). While I realise that hill tribes must make a living, seeing the authentic hut with a satellite dish outside, and a Mitsibushi truck covered over in a blanket round the back didn't really do justice to the real tribes that must still exist, with no official Thai residency to speak of.
There is a world of things to do here from gun shooting to 4x4 to
climbing from rafts, to endless trips around the area. The shopping is
so good and cheap I wish I knew someone with a transit van heading back
to the UK.
And that's about as much as you'll probably find out until I return to
the UK as I have a beer waiting and a bottle of whisky in the fridge,
and I'm stinking after wearing the same short and tshirts for days......